leaves and plunge them into ice water to stop the cooking process. This is a process called “blanching”.

Remove the leaves to paper towels or a towel and roll tightly to remove excess water. Then remove and coarsely chop the leaves (you can chop them finer later if your dish calls for finely chopped leaves). Place approximately one tablespoon of tightly packed leaves into each cell of an ice cube tray and place into the freezer to freeze overnight. After freezing remove from the herbs, place in labeled freezer bags and store in the freezer for up to three months.

Some sources say that dill, chives and basil do not need blanching. I prefer to blanch all of my non-savory herbs, but you should experiment for yourself to determine which method works best for you and you prefer.

Roots
Some herbs you may want to try, such as angelica and lovage produce roots that are often used. Dig these roots in the fall after the top growth has died down or very early spring before new growth begins. Thoroughly wash the roots and slice or split the large roots for faster drying. For drying, the roots can be placed on screens lined with cheesecloth and placed in a warm location like an attic to dry. For faster drying you can place these in single layers in a food dehydrator or commercial dryer at 120-125 degrees F turning several times each week. It may be necessary to finish the roots off in a warm oven if they don’t dry sufficiently in the dryer. It may take as long as six to eight weeks to properly dry some roots. Periodically test the roots for dryness. They should snap when you bend them with no rubbery consistency. When dry, store your roots in airtight containers in a cool, dark location.

Seeds
Seeds of coriander, dill, fennel, caraway, anise and celery are easily grown at home. When the plants begin to mature and turn yellow, but before the seed is fully mature and starts to drop, cut the seed heads leaving a few inches of stem. Trim the stems very short and place on drying wracks for five to six days, or until the seed can be knocked off the heads easily. Remove the chaff (called winnowing), and then spread on drying sheets for another week, stirring frequently to prevent molding. Store the seeds in airtight containers in a cool dark location after they are completely dry.

9) Many herbs can be successfully grown indoors in the winter, however the rate of growth will normally be slower and these should be used fresh. Herbs grown indoors require basically the same growing conditions as outdoors. They should be placed in a sunny west or south window in containers filled with well-drained potting soil. For most gardeners, I would strongly suggest the addition of supplemental grow lights as well, due to the decreased light intensity in the winter. If a sunny window is not available, most herbs that would normally do well indoors can be successfully grown under grow lights for fresh herbs all winter long.

Good drainage is vital to herbs, whether indoors or out. Never allow your herbs to sit in saucers of water. Water to the point that water starts to run out the bottom of the container, allow the excess water to drain from the container and then drain the excess water from the saucer. Allow the container to dry moderately between waterings.

Seed new crops of annual herbs in late summer for growing indoors and discard in the spring. Perennial herbs can be raised in containers that are moved indoors during the winter or dug in the fall and potted up for fresh herbs in winter. Perennial herbs will perform best if moved outdoors in spring when the weather has warmed. A light frost on such herbs as chives, mints, and tarragon will not harm the herbs. Keep all of your potted herbs in a location that will receive some protection from intense heat and winds.

While indoors, fertilize your herbs with a good quality houseplant fertilizer at one-quarter strength or just enough to maintain healthy growth. Keep your herbs pinched back to maintain a pleasing shape and appearance and use consistently to keep new growth coming on.

10) Many perennial herbs are perfectly fine grown outdoors year round, yet others, including some that are not known to be hardy in your area will need special attention when the cool weather of fall appears. If you are only a zone or two outside of the herbs preferred growing region, you may opt for carefully choosing a “micro-climate” within your landscape where the herb can find a warmer growing area.

Normally, you will want to look for areas along the south side (in the northern hemisphere) of buildings, walls, fences or the south side of dense shrubs, etc. these areas tend to be warmer throughout the year and in particular, the winter. By planting marginal plants in micro-climates, along with winter mulch, it is possible to grow many herbs you might not otherwise be able to grow. For herbs grown directly in the ground, a covering of leaves or straw applied after the ground freezes (for most northern gardeners) will normally be all that is needed to protect your herbs through winter. The reason for applying the mulch after the ground freezes is not to prevent the ground from freezing, but rather to keep it frozen. Repetitive freezing and thawing of the soil will heave (push out) many herbs out of the ground. Mulching insulates the soil and helps prevent heaving.

In areas where the ground does not consistently freeze solid, or freezes very shallowly, mulch early in the fall, not to keep the ground frozen per say, but rather to stabilize the ground and allow it to heat and cool slowly. If it does freeze, the mulch will keep it frozen. If it does not freeze, it will keep it warm enough for the roots to continue to grow. Every area is different, but mulch is always a good idea whether early or late in the fall.

Container grown perennial herbs are different situation. The root system is contained in a relatively small area that is susceptible to temperature changes. These will normally freeze solid quickly when it gets cold, but will thaw just as quickly. Additionally, the containers are susceptible to cracking with winters freezing. There are a couple of ways to approach caring for these herbs reliably. After the first hard freeze:

Bring the containers into a protected, but unheated area like an unheated garage or shed. If the shed normally gets very cold and then warms inside during the day, you will want to wrap the containers with old blankets or insulation (use the wrapped insulation) to keep them frozen.

Group the pots together inside of an enclosure keeping the tops of the pots relatively the same height (this makes it simpler to find individual pots later). Ideally, the enclosure will be in a protected area that is shielded from the winter winds. The enclosure can be as simple as chicken wire that is approximately six inches higher than your tallest pot or a cold frame or other such enclosure. Space the pots approximately 4 to 6 inches apart to allow adding insulating mulch later and keep the entire grouping not more than 3 or 4 feet wide (or narrower if you will be working from only one side) so you can reach each pot later. Place some form of stake or flag into each pot to make it easier to find each one later.

Surround and cover these with either straw or a mixture of ground straw and leaves. Avoid leaves alone as these tend to pack and stay water-logged.

During the winter, your herbs may be dormant but there is still activity in the roots. Therefore, you will need to periodically check your pots and water them sparingly during the winter when the weather moderates. Do not soak the soil because it dries very slowly in cold weather, which could cause the roots to rot. Keep the soil just slightly damp and water only when the soil dries an inch or so down.

When the weather starts to warm in the spring, start watching for signs of renewed growth. Remove most of the mulch that is covering the pots (the top only) and all of the top mulch as soon as new growth begins. Whether stored inside or out, remove your herbs to a protected, but sunny location as soon as new green growth appears and begin watering normally. After new growth has begun in earnest, give your herbs a light feeding of slow-release fertilizer. These applications apply equally as much for your herbs growing in the ground.

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